4.1496 A. Quartier-Weber Moonphase Calendar Watch, Steel 48 mm, 1880’s

A. Quartier-Weber Moonphase Calendar Watch. A rare movement in a new, custom-made stainless steel case. This fascinating movement is from the 1880’s, and has a full calendar feature with an indication of the moon phase. The watch has been professionally serviced, the movement is precise and accurate. A 6-month warranty and high-quality genuine leather wrist strap with a lining and buckles are included.

Key Features

An original 1880’s movement and dial given new life, and rehoused in a new, custom-made stainless steel antique style case, reminiscent of that of a pocket watch. This rare 1880’s antique movement has a full calendar with an indication of the moon phase, made by the Swiss family watch company A. Quartier-Weber. Note the unusual position of the lunar disc at the top of the dial. The moon in the upper part is highlighted by an empty enamel space, it hovers above the rest of the calendar and with its golden face expresses a cosmic detachment from earthly concerns.

The movement is very well made, the quality is head and shoulders above the ‘Lunar’ watch, which can usually be found on the antique market. The work on this watch has been done at the level of the best manufactories of the late 19th century, such as Louis Audemars, Vacheron & Constantin, H. R. Ekegren, and similar small-scale professional workshops. For comparison, movements of this level workmanship usually stop at the perpetual calendar function but go for a much higher price.

The combination of rare performance functions and a rare design makes this watch a desirable item for any worthy collection. The watch has been made as part of The Subscription Watch Project. The watch is very eye-catching on the wrist, thanks to the unusual open light ‘face’ and the complex enamel dial complete with many interesting hands and dials.

Servicing and Guarantee

This timepiece has been serviced with full disassembly. There is a 6-month guarantee, subject to the usage and care guidelines. Comes with a new high-quality genuine leather wrist strap with a lining and buckles.

Overview

Case and Strap

  • New, handmade, custom-made antique style case.
  • Stainless steel, with satin finish and polished welts.
  • Mineral crystal on both front and caseback.
  • Large, vintage crown has been outsourced.
  • Steel button for setting the hands.
  • Additional 4 buttons for switching displays on the side of the case.
  • In perfect condition, the case is new and unworn.
  • New, high-quality leather strap with buckles.

Dimensions:

  • Diameter without crown 48 mm.
  • Width with crown 54 mm.
  • Height of the lugs is 57 mm.

Dial and Hands

  • Original enamel dial.
  • Roman numerals.
  • 5-minute markings.
  • Small second subdial at numeral 6 position.
  • Date dial at numeral 9.
  • Days of the week dial at numeral 3.
  • Months dial at numeral 6.
  • Moon disc at numeral 12, gold with hot enamel.
  • Hands for calendars all carved in gold.
  • Hands for time indicators blue steel in a classic style.
  • Slightly convex mineral crystal.
  • The enamel is in perfect condition, original without any previous restorations.

Movement

  • Swiss-made movement.
  • Base piece from LeCoultre & Co.
  • Anchor escapement.
  • 16 jewels.
  • Bimetallic thermocompensated balance with gold adjustment screws.
  • Breguet hairspring.
  • Central axis jewels in a gold bezel.
  • Complex calendar device mounted under dial.
  • Shift levers located on case sidewalls.
  • Date, day of the week, moon phase, and months all automatically work in the calendar when switching from days 31 to 1 (that is, there are 31 days in each month, and thus must be adjusted several times a year).
  • Plates and bridges made of nickel silver.
  • In very good technical condition, everything works perfectly.

Testing Results

  • Average timekeeping range: error within 30 sec/day.

Servicing and Guarantee

  • Fully serviced with disassembly in our Bristol shop.
  • Mechanics in full working order.
  • New high-quality genuine leather wrist strap with a lining and buckles.
  • 6-month warranty.
  • Guarantee Terms and Conditions. 

Attention!

  • Calendars are switched by buttons on the side of the case and should be set by pressing with a toothpick or the tip of a ballpoint pen.
  • To avoid calendar breakdowns, the indicators can be switched with the buttons that are positioned between numerals 3 to 9.
  • The hands should NOT be moved back through the transition of the day (0 hours) .

Links and Resources:

About the “By Subscription” Watch Project.

Similar Watches in a Gold Case (although the calendar from Quartier-Weber is higher in quality).

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Case material

Stainless steel

Dial tone

Beige/White/Silver

Origin

Swiss

Size grade

46-49 mm

Year approx

1880