Le Phare Moonphase calendar quarter repeater, 49 mm, 1890’s

“Jumbo complicated” custom built watch case project based on repeating pocket watch movement from 1890’s. Original vintage pocket watch movement was placed in new machined wristwatch case.

Initially 120+ years ago it was heavy big-sized gold pocket watch with most complicated movement made by Swiss company “Le Phare” (“Lighthouse” – fr.). Unfortunately, original case lost for gold scrap.

The movement with quarter striking repeater function, full calendar, moonphase indication, and integrated centre-seconds chronograph. The more complications integrated into movement, the more work to do while housing into new case. Many buttons and switches, many repair procedures, many testing and adjustments to do.

Technical data

DIAL

type: classic hot enamel
signature: Unsigned
age & origin: original to the movement
indications: hours, minutes, seconds; date, day, month; moon phase; centre second for chronograph
hands: ornate “Louis XIV” gold plated hour-minute; blued steel hands for anything else
condition: very good, invisible chips under bezel
restorations:
 NONE

 

MOVEMENT

type: swiss lever, 20 jewels, nickel plated bridges with “Cote de Geneve” finish
balance type: bimetallic cut balance with screw weights, Breguet hairspring
complications: quarter repeating; chronograph; module with day-date-month and moonphase 
age & origin: made in Switzerland circa 1890’s, all original
condition: good (8/10) some wearing, mechanical status is PERFECT
restorations: NONE

Case making

Casemaking process was not easy indeed. We tried to make new case smaller than original one to wear it on wrist comfortably. We must avoid it being chunky piece. The target was to design new watch case maximum open-face with minimun addition to dimensions of original movement.

Stainless steel case body machined by lathe. “Olive” pieces for lugs machined on smaller lathe. Buttons for repeater and chronograph, time setting button – every part made by small lathe. Hand cutted slots for calendar setting levers. It was way not easy to house 46mm complicated movement into 49mm case.

Case blank unfinished…

Take a look under dial, we can see calendar discs (note cyrillic letters for Russiam Imperial market). Spectacular gold moonphase disc with hot enamel filling. Switches length will be adjusted flush to front bezel. 

Thick 24mm calf leather strap to complete the product look.

If you like big watches you will definitely like it on your wrist. What a feeling to wear such a complicated machine of 120-year age!

VIDEO

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Status: SOLD (similar project available for pre-order)