An example of case restorations that we are able to carry out at Horological Underground – Omega Flightmaster from the 1970s – a super rare and desirable vintage watch.
Before restoration
Overall, the watch was in really good condition besides the case body needing refinishing. Case refinishing usually falls under the label of polishing which is not entirely accurate. Mirror polishing is the most thought-of method which is not the only way to refinish and refurbish a vintage watch case.
The case has large surfaces with a linear brushing pattern directed from the centre to the edge, this is called a Sunburst pattern.
The Sunburst brushing pattern here is a good example of another refinishing method that would vastly improve the look of a timepiece like this Omega. If a case that requires a Sunburst brushing update was then mirror polished, it could completely ruin the edges and make the watch look worse overall. In this situation, it’s best to be specific: We are brushing, not polishing!
It is obvious that someone tried to mirror polish these surfaces previously. We should use the correct refinishing method and get this piece looking lovely again!
The Sunburst brushing process involves applying beam grinding lines directed from the centre to the edge of the piece.
The Lapping Machine
There are many examples of poor watch refinishing seen with watches sold online were the sharp edges and beautiful finishing details have been completely removed with mirror polishing. We make sure our finishing work is at it’s highest standard to preserve the style and condition of each timepiece we work on.
We need to sand off an amount of metal from the case surface. This method is suitable for any solid steel or solid gold cases that have open sunburst surfaces.
First of all we have to disassemble the whole case, dismantle all pushers etc. Every Sunburst attempt shaves off a layer of metal from the workpiece, so we use a sample ‘Test piece’ (Seiko, left photo) to adjust speed/grit/pressure settings of the lapping machine.
Left – a ‘Test’ piece with overpolished edges, Right – our Flightmaster case.
Abrasive grit: 240, speed and pressure application – see this short Instagram VIDEO of the process.
After restoration
This is a good example of high quality refinishing – the goal is for edges to be sharp without any rounded sections. This is a lengthy process and requires the removal of many layers of metal.
We also polished the crown and pushers and repainted the markers with a special waterproof paint and a UV-cured lacquer protection layer.
Bracelet and clasp with updated brushing.
The end result! What do you think? 🙂
If you’ve enjoyed reading this post, please consider following us on Instagram to see similar in – depth looks at our work here at horological underground : Horological Underground shop / German Polosin watchmaking
Ordering and prices
Restoring a watch case always requires an individual assessment. This 2025 Restoration cost £890.
We take servicing/repair orders from the UK and abroad, please see our page dedicated to Watch Repairs in Horological Underground Bristol.
