996. 153T Longines ‘Professional’, Steel 35 mm, Switzerland, 1942

Rare ‘Professional’ 153T model in a solid, steel shock-resistant and moisture-resistant case. The body is heavy, thick-walled, and quite large for its time of production (35 mm versus the typical 32 mm). The watch was found in an old catalogue (see the scan).

In the 1940’s, the Longines company actively collaborated with both UK and US allies, as well as with the Wehrmacht, supplying watches to all warring parties. Many watches can be found in the military style with radium phosphor, but these watches look completely different – more modern and uniform in appearance. During the war years, many interesting experimental solutions were introduced, such as moisture-proof cases, engineering markings of dials, etc. These distinctive early models are highly valued among connoisseurs of the LONGINES brand history, see example 1 (33 mm), example 2 (34 mm).

The ‘Professional’ model also served as a prototype of the modern ‘Heritage 1940’ line, which is successfully produced by the company and is still available in branded boutiques. You can buy a new branded replica model, or you can get the original prototype at half the price.

The watch fits very comfortably on the wrist, excellent size, the hands have great readability, conveniently sized crown. The case is large and solid, with polishing and precision-grinding – it looks perfect. With respect and care the mechanical parts will last for another 100 years. This watch could become the one and only for all occasions, a worthy item to wear and pass on to the next generation.

Body: 9/10 (near perfect)

Watch face: 9/10 (near perfect)

Mechanism: 10/10 (like new)

Accuracy: 9/10 (near perfect)

The case is made of solid stainless steel, the back cover is screwed on with a moisture-proof seal (the gasket is original). Large, original crown with a seal. The Longines brand name is stamped on the inside of the cover. In close to perfect condition.

Dimensions:

  • Diameter without crown 35 mm.
  • Width with crown 37.5 mm.
  • Height of the lugs 44 mm.

Dial with fine lines, Arabic numerals in military font, central second hand, signed “LONGINES”. The hands are thin, dark blue, all original. Mineral glass, slightly convex, in excellent condition. The facade of the watch looks perfect on the wrist.

Mechanism L12. 68N, corresponds to 1942, according to the catalogue. Plates and bridges with the Geneva wave, the quality of workmanship and processing is at the highest level. Jewels in the bezels, steel wheels with precision-grinding. Shockproof Pare-Schock device. Everything works perfectly.

Longines Caliber L 12.68 N:

  • Manual winding
  • Central second hand
  • Diameter 27 mm, height 5.7 mm
  • 17 jewels
  • Frequency of 18000 pcs per hour
  • Power reserve of 40 hours

The watch has undergone professional maintenance and is fully ready for daily wear. The set includes a new, classically styled, high-quality wrist strap with firmware.

The operation of the mechanism is guaranteed for 6 months, subject to the rules of operation.

Additional Links:

“Heritage collection” line on the official Longines website.

Movement caliber 12.68 N.

STATUS: UNAVAILABLE (removed from the collection)